The proper tux is more than just a formality

March 2024 ยท 5 minute read

Had I not worn a waistcoat (or what I used to call a vest), the tragic sight of my bursting buckle and zippers would have been even more obvious. Since then I have been thinking about getting myself more black-tie ready.

Traditionalists say that when it's black tie, it's a black tuxedo (and those questionable pleated pants) with bow tie, black shoes and maybe a waistcoat or cummerbund - no more, no less. In the old days, men were supposed to dress uniformly on black-tie occasions to serve as a canvas for women in their extravagant evening gowns.

I belong to a different generation and believe that people should be creative, even with black tie. Happily more and more parties are putting down 'creative black tie' as the dress code.

That means that you can turn up in a traditional tux if you like - Ted Baker and the Boss Black line (left) of Hugo Boss are two labels that offer something classic but in more contemporary cuts. Or you can wear a tux jacket with your shirt untucked, go plaid if you like (in Scotland, a kilt is commonplace on black-tie occasions) or wear a pair of hot True Religion jeans with a semi-formal top.

But fashion common sense applies. Three-button jackets are only for the tall and slim, and double-breasted is only for men who have a broad enough build to carry it. And don't force yourself out of your comfort zone just because the invitation card says 'creative black tie'. It only means that you could go creative, not that you must. Nothing is more unattractive than looking uncomfortable in a party situation.

A velvet dinner jacket, well illustrated by Pal Zileri (right), raises the sexiness benchmark without going too far. With the right hair and posture, a plush jacket such as this oozes killer charm.

Of course when it comes to creative black tie, one of the best brands is D&G. This season, the brand has a range of elegant satin suits with shawl-collar jackets that go beautifully with bowties. It also features a satin bow scarf that can take the place of a bow tie. If you can carry it, the brocade suits (below, right) would also make you the focal point of any party.

Italian brand Brioni offers an eye-catching red tuxedo jacket against a red shirt and red bowtie and it also matches a yellow dress shirt with a yellow bow tie, but unfortunately these designs are not available in Hong Kong. But for a more classic tuxedo, the brand's outlet in Hong Kong is still a great place to go.

Brioni is one of the brands participating in Lane Crawford's made-to-measure service, and brands such as Dunhill offer custom tailoring, with top-notch service and quality to match. But everything also comes with a hefty price tag, of course. And ordinarily you would only want to blow a big chunk of cash on a classic tuxedo that you can wear many times. For something more affordable, Hong Kong has no shortage of standalone tailors or specialist shops providing tailoring services.

Two of my best friends are getting married and, against their better judgment, have designated me as the fashion consultant for the groomsmen. My suggestion for a silver suit has prompted them to rethink my role but luckily our friendship has proven to be stronger than their doubts.

Because I wanted something more playful, I felt that it would be better to go for a local tailor. My research took me to dinner suit specialist E-Rave, which has four shops around town and no shortage of shiny fabrics. A traditional dinner suit starts from about HK$3,000 to HK$4,000, which includes one free alteration if you want to change the outfit to a more daily-wear style after the special event. Obviously, quirky requirements mean a higher price.

E-Rave provides great substitutes to bowties, such as a continental tie, Ascot tie or gem-button collar band. The shop also offers a tuxedo rental service.

At the end, though, we went for a shop in Mong Kok called J.J. Design, where many Hong Kong men go for value-for-money made-to-measure suits. Located in the maze-like but amusing mall of the Argyle Centre, this place does most of its business making work suits but it can also make dinner jackets with satin lapels.

The shop has a wide range of fabrics to choose from and for a little more than HK$1,000 each all groomsmen had silver-grey dinner suits made. The groom-to-be, who insisted on tagging along to make sure that the groomsmen's suits would not take a surprising turn, was relieved that it is in an acceptable level of shininess.

But, of course, I have yet to tell him how I will accessorise my suit.

Shopping list

Brioni available from Lane Crawford, IFC Mall, Central, tel: 2118 3388.

D&G, Pacific Place, Admiralty, tel: 2801 6827.

Dunhill, 1881 Heritage, TST, tel: 2368 6851.

E-Rave, Shop 3, G/F Sino Centre, 255-257 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay, tel: 2577 1141.

Hugo Boss, Shop 222, Pacific Place, Admiralty, 2918 1833.

J.J Design, Shop S54, 2/F, Phase 1, Argyle Centre, 688 Nathan Rd, Mong Kok, tel: 2302 0708.

Pal Zileri, Lane Crawford, 3 Canton Rd, TST, tel: 2118 8428.

Ted Baker, Pacific Place, Admiralty tel: 2918 9609.

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